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miercuri, 18 noiembrie 2009

I am the cyclovagabond of my life - I will never forget you master Gheorghe Dinica

The bike tour in The Alps 2009

I started this tour on 16th of june from my little town Ineu. At Dorobanti village, I met my cycling friend Andrei Ozizu, an experienced cyclotourist from Buzau and there we stayed to enjoy and relax a few hours at a thermal balneal compound where we met a lovely Turkish girl that stayed in Arad. We had a nice time swimming, drinking beer and chatting with the pretty girls. I found out that Ozi my friend was a real Casanova, he was always flirting with beautiful girls. We entered Hungary at Battonya customs office and the first night we pitched our tents near the border on a pastureland. We cycled together for 9 days, a real tour of Hungary, crossing the endless Panonia steppe under the scorching sun, visiting the gorgeous capital Budapesta, and passing through wonderful towns, such as: Szeged and Szekesfehervar. We also had some nasty weather to cope with, we had 4 days of continuous rain but when we reached the Balaton lake the sun showed up and we had such a lovely time, feeding some swans with cubs and cycling on great bicycle path near the lake. I liked very much cycling with Ozi, sometimes he raced me with an average of 30km/h, so very tough for cyclotourism with heavy luggage. At Szigliged village, at the other side of the lake, we had to say good bye to each other for we had different plans, I had to go to climb passes in the Alps and to be present to an important meeting in Obertsdorf and Ozi wanted to cycle in Slovenia and then to head for Wien. I slept there overnight and next day I continued my tour. I passed through Zalaegerszeg and then I was caught by a violent storm right before crossing the Slovenian border. I was lucky to get to a pub just before the storm started and there I ran into 2 lovely fair hair girls with whom I had a nice discussion about my trip and about their country. Then I entered Slovenia at night and I cycled in the dark till I reached a restaurant where I had a great pizza frutti di mare and I tried the Slovenian beer (pivo) which is very tasty. The next day I cycled a bit in a hilly region with gradients up to 17% than I entered Austria, after meeting a decent german cyclotourist Klaus that drank with me some white wine in a pub close to the customs.
Austria will remain for ever the queen of my soul, a paradise for cycloclimbing, with the fabulous mountains, the kind-hearted people, the gorgeous girls, the great cuisine, the impeccable bike ways near the spectacular sparkling rivers and streams under the mind-blowing snow-capped peaks. Oh, Austria my beloved how could I ever forget you, you accomplished my deepest dreams, and there I lived the best days of my life, climbing the toughest slopes on modernized roads from Europe, coming across tourists and cyclotourists from all over the world, meeting so generous people and falling in love with unbelievably beautiful young girls. In Austria the people are in a tremendous harmony with nature and I was simply bewildered by this country and its beauty and I swore to myself I would come back next year to discover new secrets from such an unique and unparalleled land.
I crossed Austria through the Alps. In Burgenland I had to climb many hills with gradients up to 20%. In this area I cycled about 20km with a young and stout guy that always used to say: “Holly Shit” when hearing about my trips on 2 wheels. Then the rain started and we stopped at a guesthouse where he paid for a bottle of wine for us to drink and we had a nice chat. In the evening at Obergnas village where I stopped as it was raining, I met a great lady Christine, at a guesthouse that offered me a delicious pizza and a glass of wine for free and then let me spend my night in a cloakroom for sportsmen, where I could have a hot shower and in the morning she gave me a plentiful breakfast, too. Such a generous lady, I will never forget her. Long live Austria!
Then after avoiding Graz, I was heading for the Alps and after the town of Koflach, it started raining again and at the foot of the StubAlpe, I was invited by some motor bikers at a party where I met great people and I had a great time, and then there I slept in a garage of a guy. Such a lovely night it was with plenty of beers, great food and merry people. The next day, having a slight hangover I continued my journey, climbing the first BIG pass in the tour, the Gaberl Sattle(1551m). It was raining and cold and after about 15km of climb I arrived at a chalet where I stopped to have a cake and some wine that cost me 14€. There I met a lovely young lady with 3 little and smart girls that talked to me. The gorgeous lady learned one of her daughters to say: “This is a very nice man!” referring to me.
It was a great afternoon, then I had to go, quickly descending the hairpins and at the first village I discovered a party. There I stayed, and a few youngsters impressed by my tour offered me some pints of beer. It was raining so I stayed more enjoying good music and great company and then it was discoteque in the open and under some large tents. Latter on, I fall in love with a beautiful brunette with whom I danced. Unfortunately she had a little girl and a husband, so no chance for me. Then, an old sexy women rather tipsy picked me up, and we pranced and danced very hot, drinking whisky and enjoying life. Finally she took me to her house and offered me a great night, I mean she left me an entire house for a night for she had 2 houses. Such a great lady, I am grateful to her and next day, almost in tears I promised I would return to visit her.
Then at Judenburg, a nice town where I saw a medieval tower of about 80 meters long, my mother sent me 100euro at a Reinffeisen Bank.
Then I climbed some more passes, I remember SolkPass(1790m), pretty tough with gradients up to 15%, on the top I entered a little chapel dedicated to Saint Nicolaus where I said a prayer thanking God for this lovely trip. On top of the pass I saw plenty of snow and red mountain peony.
Then on my way to Saalfelden I climbed another 2 BIGs, Arthur Haus, very tough with slopes up to 18% and Dientner Sattel with gradients up to 15%. Then the great challenge came when I climbed the terrible Kitzbuhler Horn, that has an average of 12.9% and a maximum gradient of 23%. And this ferocious climb I did with heavy luggage weighing 25kg. My bike Kona Sutra 2008 was just perfect for this difficult task, and I must thank from all my heart to the generous sponsor, Mr. Mircea Florescu for fulfilling me my dream by giving me this exquisite bike that helped me conquering so difficult climbs.
Climbing this monster with heavy luggage astonished the tourists, especially the last 3 km when the average gradient was more than 20%. On top of it at 1970m high, I celebrated with a guyas soup and a pint of beer, and an old man took pictures of me quite astounded by my feat. I felt so good, I was so overjoyed and for a moment I was the king of the hill, so I encountered for a splitting second the state of everlasting inner bliss. Mighty God be praised for this for ever!
On my way down I nearly bumped into some tourists, the road being very narrow and I saw a spectacular parade of ancient classic cars, extremely expensive and flawlessly restored to their majestic beauty of times bygone.
Then near Hopfgarten I came across a lovely group of young tourists from South Africa and Australia. I drank some beers with them, talking with pretty girls about my adventures. On my way to Innsbruck, I passed through Rattenberg, a lovely medieval town that drew my attention and in the town of Schwaz I met two beautiful Austrian girls that were having a tour by bicycle near some rivers. Except for Budapest, Innsbruck was the most fascinating town that I visited in this tour: fabulous cathedrals, great medieval architecture, plenty of tourists, a cosmopolitan atmosphere was ruling everywhere. There I met 2 german cyclotroubadours and 2 young Scottish girls that were having a long journey in Europe by bicycles.
Then I climbed another BIG pass, a very scenic one (Hahntennjoch pass -1894m), and just after descending this pass I met a couple of cyclotourists from New Zeeland that were going from Athens to Germany. At Elmen village, I stayed at a barbecue party where I enjoyed a lot till very late.
The next day after climbing another 2 passes I finally reached Oberstdorf in Germany where I was so well received by my colleagues and friends from BIG Challenge Club.
It was such a great honour for me to finally meet great cycloclimbers from all over Europe such as: Daniel Gobert, the emblematic president of this great international cycloclimbing club, Claudio Montefusco, a great Spanish cycloclimber that interviewed me and than included me in a nice feature report that appeared in nr 32 of the prestigious Spanish cycling magazine Pedalier. Then I met Francois Candau, a friend of mine from France that sponsored me with 100euro and who was very kind to me. I also met Gabor Gyorgyi, who is a friend of mine and Gabor Kreicsi, the best cycloclimbers from Hungary. I met there guys from Belgium, Netherlands, France, Italy, Hungary, Spain and Latvia and I stayed 2 wonderful days with this special team climbing a few BIGs in Germany together.
It was just a great biketrip for me and then on my way back to Romania I cycled in Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Hungary again crossing the mighty Alps again and collecting many BIGs and having a great time with plenty of adventures.

This fabulous journey on 2 wheels I want to dedicate from the bottom of my heart to the generous sponsor, Mr. Mircea Florescu, the patron of Assport bike shop from Bucharest, who made my dreams come true by sponsoring me with a gorgeous touring bike Kona Sutra 2008 that behaved magnificently in this long tour through the Alps.
God bless the gentle-hearted sponsor and his family!
I also want to thank to my family, my mother Mariana and my father Dan for supporting me and helping me through thick and thin.
I also want to thank Daniel Gobert, Francois Candau, Mihaela Rusu, the patron of a factory of furniture for children ( and Catalin Dimofte for their financial help.
God bless the generous people!

vineri, 30 octombrie 2009

A glorious song that I really love

Cicloexpeditia "Octombrie mon amour 2009"

day 1

Am pornit din Ineu la ora 14 prima portiune asfaltat am trecut prin Bocsig, Manerau, Voivodeni, Aldesti, Barsa, am ajuns la Sebis unde ne-am oprit la restaurantul Onyx la o ciorba de burta. Am continuat prin Donceni, Buhani, de la Dezna dupa o pauza am luat-o pe un drum forestier pentru traversarea muntilor Codru Moma. Traseu salbatic pitoresc pe valea Deznei, drum prost si urcus greu.Pe la 22 ne-am dat seama ca ne-am pierdut pe drumuri forestiere cautand satul Camp-Moti. Drun numai bolovani, mai sa ne rupem biclele, in sfarsit am ajust pana in satul Camp la ora 23. Ne-am oprit la o bodega sa mancam si sa bem ceva unde ne-am intalnit cu localnicii si ne-am imprietenit cu baiatul barmanului, care ne-a invitat sa dormim la ei acasa. Florin Mos, super om,ne-a dat zagusca de fasole si palinca si am stat de vorba pana la 4 dimineata despre femeile din viata noastra si aventurile noastre pe 2 roti.


Ne-am sculat la 11 si am stat la o cafea pana 13 in birtul lui Nea Mos dupa care am plecat catre Manastirea Izbuc trecand prin satele Izbuc si Calugari. Traseu frumos cu pante de 10 grade cu priveliste superba catre Muntii Bihorului. Am ajun la manastire la 2:30 P.M. unde ne-am cazat si am fost invitati la masa. Am vazut izbucul, si biserica de lemn din secolul 18, stil traditional. Am fost la slujba la 6 dupa care pe la 8 am mancat din nou... fasole.

Fratele Cristi ne-a explicat cateva lucruri despre manastire si ne-a aratat poienitele in drum catre localitatea Avram Iancu.

day 3

noaptea la manastirea Izbuc, dupa ce Claudiu a suferit toata noaptea de durere de masea am plecat, coborare catre Carpinet unde una din biciclete a avut un cablu de viteze spate complet desfacut. Am fixat lantul in satul Crisciorul de jos dupa care am inceput catarea 5 Km catre Varfuri. Medie buna pe catarare, dupa care am coborat 8 Km catre Varfuri. In satul Lazuri Claudiu s-a aprovizionat cu afinata si cu tuica de coarne, antidot impotriva durerii de masea. Am ajuns seara la Vata Bai unde pentru 15 lei de caciula am facut o baie. Cam 60 Km total. Dupa bai am inceput sa cautam un loc de culcare si pana la urma la iesire din localitate la o vila in constructie. Unde Claudiu a baut copios si ascultand Maria Tanase a varsat o lacrima pentru omenire.

day 4

Am strans cortul pe la 11:30 si ne-am dus la un restaurant unde mancasem cu o seara inainte f. f. bine si am mancat micul dejun. Cafeaua excelenta. La 12:20 am pornit la drum. E79, trafic suportabil, pana la rascruce cu drumul spre Geoagiu, bineinteles trecand prii Brad. Am mers pe drum judetean catre Geogiu si ne-a prins ploaia. Am pedalat pe frig si ploaie cu un vant senzational din spate pana in Rapolt unde ne-am adapostit la o bodega. Am inceput sa intrebam de cazare bineinteles nimic ca pensiune, dupa care am incercat la oameni in case. Am avut o mica sansa care s-a spart repede lumea fiind un pic neincrezatoare in straini. Tot stand la bodega aici ne-am gandit sa punem cortul pe un teren viran vizavi. Am aflat ca era al primarului si ca putem cere voie fratelui care statea chiar in capatul ulitei. Am asteptat sa vina pe bicicleta (descris de barmanita) si cand l-am intrebat ne-a invitat la dansul acasa. Norocul iar ne surade neavand placerea de a pune cortul pe ploaie. Total 70 Km. Avem un soricel in camera si sper sa nu ne roada ceva echipament.Seara stam de vorba cu domul Hutu si aflam o cutremuratoare si dramatica poveste de viata, omul in varsta de 62 suferea de o semipareza inca din tinerete si nu se insurase niciodata dar era senin, vesel si lipsit de vicii.

Day 5,

A venit brusc toamna, temperatura abia daca trece de 10 grade Celsius, pedalam pe Valea Muresului, pana la Geogiu trecand prin sate pitoresti.Apoi suntem nevoiti sa pedalam pe drumul european din apropiere de Orastie pana in Sibiu. La un local unde ne oprim pt o omleta si niste virsli, cand merg pana la toaleta ma trezesc ca sunt interpelat de o prostituata care-si ofera serviciile sexuale la preturii derizorii. Vai rau e cu criza asta care le-a afectat si pe ele, bietele fici ratacite ale eternei Eve, In Sebes intalnim cel mai aglomerat trafic din tura, vreo 10 km de masini bara la bara caci se construia la o cale ferata. La Miecurea Bai oprim la o masa imbelsugata la un restaurant iar Razvan mai mestereste la bicicleta. Apoi ajungem la sibiu dupa ce mai avem de urcat inca 2 dealuri spre bucuria mea. Aici vizitam centrul istoric si ne dam intalnire cu niste prieteni pasionati de cicloturism, cu Dani Schwartz, probabil singurul posesor al unui triciclu tandem creat de el din Sibiu si Cosmin Rotar, un prieten vechi de-al meu cu care am facut multe ture in anii studentiei. Ne ducem la Crama National care-mi aduce aminte de boema mea prima tinerete si ne cinstim cum se cuvine la o cana(sau mai de graba oala) de vin fiert. Apoi mergem la Dani care ne mai ajusteaza bicicletele, iar apoi gasim cazare la motel Dumbrava cu doar 80RON pe noapte. Mai stam la inca o bere impreuna cu cei 2 prieteni si apoi ne ducem la culcare.

Day 6,

Dupa ce ne trezim tarziu, constatam ca ploua mocaneste. Pornim pe la ora 11 pe ploaie si dupa doar 8 km in Cisnadioara suntem deja uzi leoarca, caci ploaia s-a intetit. Desi sunt doar 8 grade celsius continuam sa pedalam pe ploaie, trecem de Cisnadie si pe catararea spre sadu ne mai incalzim putin caci tragem tare. Apoi decidem sa facem popas la o terasa unde vedem foc in vatra. Acolo incercam sa ne mai uscam hainele putin si stam la o palincuta si niste mititei. Pana la urma pedalam tot pe ploaie pana la intersectia cu drumul care duce spre Transfagarasan, trecand prin Talmaciu si Avrig unde ne oprim la mormantul lui Gheorghe Lazar.
Ne cazam la hotel Bastion 2000, unde petrecem o seara pe cinste cu o nasa imbelsugata si un vin ales.

Day 7,

Ne trezim pe la ora 10, in timp ce Razvan coboara la o cafea, eu urmaresc putin slujba inchinata sfintei Parascheva, la TV. Era 14 oct, inca nu puteam sa anticipam ca avea sa urmeze una dintre cele mai dure, dramatice dar si fericite zile din viata noastra. Dupa micul dejun si dupa ce Razvan a avut o mica problema cu unflatul unei roti, plecam pe la ora 12. Sunt doar 4 grade Celsius, deja e vreme de iarna, deci al 3-lea anotimp in doar o sapatamana. Ne oprim in Cartisoara la niste poze si-mi aduc aminte de vorbele prietenului meu Cosmin Rotar care-mi zicea in 2007 cand faceam dubla traversare europeana prin Alpi: "Claudiu, sunt mandru de tine, esti un adevarat Badea Cartan modern!" Ei bine, da sunt un urmas al lui Cartan si sunt mandru ca sunt roman.
De la pensiunea Vama Cucului incepe catararea si dupa doar cativa km de urcat ne trezim cu o lapovita frumoasa, pedalam de zor si dupa cota 1000 incepe sa ninga. Ne oprim la Cabana Balea Cascada unde mancam bine si ne mai uscam hainele.
Razvan si-a uitat fesul acasa si manusile, iar eu nu aveam o geaca sau ceva haine groase, doar 2 bluze si o pelerina de ploaie.
Pedalam inainte si ninsoarea devine tot mai puternica, iar stratul de zapada de pe carosabil incepe sa fie tot mai gros. Inaintam greoi si la fiecare km sunt nevoit sa-l astept pe Razvan, care era putin mai lent. Inghetam usor, pe bagajele bicicletelor noastre se depune un gros strat de zapada ca pe sosea. Pe ultimul km sopre balea Lac ne-a prins noaptea si a inceput viscolul, vantul suiera, de pe versanti cadea zapada cu nemiluita, rafale de vant reci ne ciuruiau, bombardandu-ne cu zapada, Razvan nu-ai mai simte loburile urechilor, avand capul gol, iar eu nu-mi mai pot misca degetul mijlociu de la mana dreapta. Traim momente de parca am fi in expeditie in Himalaya sau la Polul Sud.
Lipsa echipamentului poate fi fatala in astfel de situatii. Pana la urma reusim sa ne taram pana la Cabana Paltinu unde ne aflam salvarea, trecand si prin zone unde zapada era de peste 50 cm, fiind nevoiti sa luam bicicleta incarcata de bagaje pe sus, facand un efort considerabil.
Aici ne revenim totusi, dar cazarea fiind cam scumpa de 190RON camera cu 2 paturi, dupa ce mancam copios, constatam ca am ramas fara bani si suntem nevoiti ca ziua urmatoare sa facem cale intoarsa spre Avrig, unde era primul bancomat, de unde ne-am gandit sa luam trenul caci am suferit destul.

Day 8,

Ora 10, dupa micul dejun, incepem coborarea. Utilajul de dezapezire si-a facut treaba, dar e o gheata teribila si sunt -10grade Celsius. Din nou urechiile lui Razvan ingheata la fel ca degetele mele. Eu avannd rotile cam tocite, sufar 4 cazaturi dar la viteza mica, deci fara nici o urmare grava, o singura data dau cu spatele mai vartos de gheata si alunec pe gheata, iar o data incercand sa ma trag din fata unei masini, bicicleta aluneca aproape sub masina iar eu plonjez in dreapta in afara pericolului.
Gheata avem cam pana pe la cota 1200, ne incalzim iar putin la Balea cascada iar apoi continuam, pana la Avrig avem un vant puternic din fata.
De aici schimbam 4 trenuri pana la Ineu unde ajungem abia la 7 AM ziua urmatoare. Prin gara din Arad, pe la 4 AM s-a legat niste politisti comunitari de mine vazandu-ma in asemenea ciudat echipament si crezandu-ma scapat de la azilul de nebuni.

A fost o tura inefabila si de neuitat!

Traiasca cicloturismul!
Multumesc din nou cu mare respect prietenului meu Razvan Anton pt aceasta tura fabuloasa unde m-am simtit erou macar o clipa sau unde era sa devin erou.
Te imbratisez cu drag si te astept la urmatoare aventura pe sfantul plai mioritic, la anul in luna mai.
Claudiu MOGA